Back where we belong

We have been looking forward to this for a while, and with the problems of Dora behind us, we can once again relax in the mountains.

We head out of Ioannina. The weather is a bit bleak. We are going to have to be a bit flexible, moving stuff around over the next few days to get the best out of the place, while missing all the showers.

It turns out to be quite a short drive north of Ioannina, the road is good and before long we head through small villages, getting to the heart of the Zagori region.

The cutest picture postcard places, with slate roofs. This is what they are famous for around here.

The slate is big and thick, not like the UK.

They are also big on outdoor activities, and fairly near the top of the list is rafting. We pass over an improbably thin bridge, worried Dora might break it. Below us a group is just setting out down river.

But this is not our destination, today we want to get high into the mountains, the last village up, Mikro Papigo. This is the one nearest the trailhead which will take us to the summit of the tallest peak around here, Gamila.

The views get better as Dora climbs the narrow winding roads.

And you can see why the area is famous for its gorges. It is our intention to walk along the most famous, the Vikos gorge, on one of our days here.

We come across a herd of goats languishing on the roadside, one stands tiptoe to reach that most succulent of morsels above him, another has fantastically long horns. We like goats.

Dora finds a parking spot next to her favourite building, a church. It is not that level, she seems to lurch precariously to one side. We are worried we might come back to find her laying on her side, like a beached whale. Tonight we will have to find a level spot to sleep, here it would be like sleeping standing up.

The village sits below a dramatic escarpment of rock, dominating and overshadowing it.

Our first port of call, the park information office which is in the village.

The village is tiny, just thirty or so houses a restaurant and a hotel, but little else.

It is however quite popular and a few tourists, mainly Greek, mill about.

The young guy at the information office is overly enthusiastic, telling us all about the the animals we are likely to see; bears, they won’t harm you; wolves, be careful; chamois, you should see these, and a small dragon that lives in a lake (a newt I presume). He is also very aggressive on some of the times we might take on the routes. We are a little more sceptical.

However, he also hands us a few publications. These were left by the WWF who used to run the park for the Greek government. They used to sell these publications but he just gives them away! Sometimes you get to understand why the Greeks are in the current financial predicament.

Sure enough the village are really hand made, and many of the building are in a state of collapse.

And those famous roofs, you really wonder if they actually serve their primary function, to keep out the rain. This one looks like some has thrown the slate up there from the ground, or it has been constructed by a cyclone.

This is the neighbouring village just down the road, Papigo, the big brother.

We decide to head out for a walk. It is too late in the day to try a longish trek, so we opt for a short hike that will take us below the escarpment you could see earlier. As we leave the village we pick up a stray dog, who looks like he also wants a walk, and some company. This will become a common occurrence over the next couple of weeks.

We are soon heading away from the village along level paths with views back towards Papigo.

The path is slightly inclined, but crossed a steep slope and numerous areas of scree, formed from the erosion of the escarpment above.

Clouds are scurry across the sky, above us the tops of the rocky summits are often shrouded in mist.

But not down here, down here all is clear.

We may have to wait until the weather clears before we venture higher into the mountains.

The scree is really precarious to cross at times, it slopes away so abruptly, straight down into the gorge below.

And above these great slabs of rock. This one was described as red. I wouldn’t go that far, but it is a beautiful colour and very dramatic.

The path continues, getting narrow and less well maintained. I don’t think many people venture along this path, especially at this time of year.

Which is their loss, as it is a lovely walk. We are heading into the Vikos gorge, but at a high level.

Can you believe Dora managed to drag herself up that magnificent road. She wasn’t happy.

We pass an American couple, they appear to be retired but still up for a fairly adventurous walk. I hope we are still able to summon up the strength when we are their age. We get to the end of the path and return.

Before we get back to the village we decide to extend our walk and head into Papigo. Maybe they have a shop where we can buy some bread. Our faithful friend has had enough of our company and will go no further, so be it!

Down in the valley and we cross the stream. Everything is really clean around here. We have generally been impressed by how litter free the countryside is. Another lesson Italy could learn here.

Clouds still linger around the peaks, we were scrambling below those cliffs just a few moments ago.

Papigo is a bit bigger, but still doesn’t manage a shop, or not one that will be open today or tomorrow, maybe Friday!

The new buildings have tried, unsuccessfully to copy the old. They stick out, too clean, too perfect, too big, too regular.

But just like Guisando, allotments fill the centre of the village.

See what I mean, they look like some military barracks, such a shame.

And next to the original. Lesson, never copy, learn and re-invent, but don’t copy.

The bell tower sits away from the church in some folly like structure.

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Time to get back to Dora, on the way back to her we pass back across the stream, with its multitude of cascades and pools.

We also come across this strange march of the caterpillar on the road. I hope a car does come along soon.

Finally we reach Dora. We have decided to move things around, rather than do the summit tomorrow, maybe we should walk the gorge. Maybe the weather is clearing, we can see blue sky in the distance, a bit more time and conditions up top could be perfect.

And there is that amazing road again. Twelve switchbacks, one after the after. What a piece of engineering.

We go in search of some bread and then head for Vikos. It is our intention to get a taxi to the start of the walk tomorrow and walk back to Vikos village along the gorge.

We negotiate with a few of the locals. This one old guy suggests we should sleep at the other end of the gorge so we will be rested properly for the walk, he also wants €35 to take us there, he won’t be getting our custom. Another guy, who owns the restaurant wants €30, that will do us. And we will frequent his restaurant, so he should do alright.

That short walk ended up being nearly five hours. We park up Dora, spruce ourselves up a bit before heading out on a date.

I had the lamb, Susana had the Spinach pie. A bit of a mix up on timings, they don’t seem to get the concept of starter or main, it all just comes out of the kitchen when cooked, not so well planned. She is apologetic though, and it has been a nice night. Tomorrow the gorge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GDR