And for many different reasons, but it did cost us.
While in Digne les Bains we had picked up a leaflet in the local tourist office. Susana, it must be said, was a little bit dismissive. You see it was a via ferrata that you had to pay for, which is against all our principles, if you can get away with it. But there was something here that we had come across on a few occasions so far but hadn’t been able to participate in, so this would be our chance.
So after completing the gorge so quickly we managed to get in quite a long drive, so nearly reached our next destination. Nearly, but not quite. We found one of our typical laybys. It was on a quiet road and so we had a peaceful night, although we can tell that autumn is upon us; the leaves are just about to change and there is a chill in the air.
So after our normal morning routine we continue our short journey north to via ferrata de la Grande Fistoire, which is located just beyond Le Caire. We are in the back end of France, just a little bit of agriculture around here and not much tourism, which is why they have constructed a via ferrata but also why there is a small charge, this is not an affluent area.
We do have a few reservations. If it is a tourist attraction, will it be ‘up to scratch’. We do not really know what grade it will be, the leaflet is a bit illusive.
But as we turn the final corner, the rock outcrop that will be the entertainment for the day, certainly looks promising.
Preparation takes longer than normal. The small office where you pay is adjacent to the car park. The women goes through the route with us. It sounds quite challenging. Although there seems to be an easy start, both difficult and exposure rapidly increases, with an initial crux right up to the peak of the last photo. You can choose an easier route, which avoids the overhang, we will have to see how we feel.
But we also have a bit of training to undertake. One of my main interests of doing this climb was because it incorporates three Tyrolean slides and they are quite long. We have never done this before. We pay our €5.50 entrance fee and rent our pulley for €3 and head to the back of the hut to learn how to safely use a Tyrolean cable.
The training was fun, although I may not seem I had much of it at that time. They have a couple of cables over a small ditch at the back of the office; they teach you how to start, how to land and what to do if you can’t land properly. For some reason, I thought that may happen so I requested I did that bit twice. SM.
Training over so we head to the start of the climb.
Everything is looking really promising, an easy start with lots of protection, but nice and vertical so we gain height quickly.
Susana gallops up the first stemples.
And I try and keep up as she starts to traverse.
A couple kindly let us pass.
And then follow on behind, it looks like it may be her first outing. I hope she is enjoying it.
She seems to be managing well.
Up ahead we can hear a larger group, maybe school children with instructors.
For the time being they are far enough ahead, but we are catching them. We slow down a bit.
Climbing like this you gain height really quickly, without really being aware of it until you stop for a second; what a view.
Already everything is so far below us.
I think we are nearly at the first junction.
And the inevitable has happened, we have caught up with the school party.
They are roped together in groups of three, but are not actually using the rope for protection, so it is difficult to see why they bother, probably for insurance reasons!
The young girl at the back of the group seems really distressed, pretty close to tears. Now you could be too judgemental here, she may really want to do this, but it is still proving really tough, or alternatively she has peer pressure or is being bullied by instructors.
Whatever the truth of the situation, don’t leave her at the back where she is moist venerable, help her, encourage her. I really despair at these situations, this might be the last time this young girl ever leaves the city again, never to venture back to the countryside because of this one experience.
Her fellow students seem to be enjoying a lot, including her twin sister, which isolates her even more. No one wants to befriend the struggler. SM.
The Instructor lets us pass two of the groups and then goes back to assist his petrified student….AT LAST.
There still seems to be maybe ten in front of us so we will have to be patient and admire the view.
Susana is today wearing her latest ferrata fashion accessory, to be found in all good decathlon for €14.99.
Not only do I want to the best ferratist but also the coolest! SM.
Lovely use of the gloves there and a nice little relaxed lay back.
Are these cyclists or ferratists behind us? They are also moving fast and have overtaken some of the group.
We assume they are cyclists because they wear cyclist helmets, which is very, very wrong. Cyclist helmets don’t fit the purpose. These guys should have done a bit more research before giving via ferrata a go, or be a bit more conscious. SM.
And here is the log jam, but we are not really in a hurry and have all day. As long as you can find easy places to rest where you aren’t straining your arms it doesn’t really matter.
And now we have a logjam behind as well.
Shortly afterwards we find the group relaxing on a large shelf, waiting for us so that we might pass. How kind. Somehow we just need to pass; clip, unclip, re-clip, under their rope, excuse me, and up the ladder and out of harms way.
And then the decision, the overhang or the easy way?
Obvious choice really….Overhang.
Quite strenuous, a few big pull ups with the arms, swing the legs up, and the crux is over, just a few more stemples and haul yourself to the top. Phew!
That was good, now Susana’s turn, which she makes look easy.
So that is the first proper challenge over with. A bit strenuous, but OK and quite short. A little bit of a rest as we come off the top down the ridge, just a few bits of easy down climbing and then a long bridge.
This is reasonably stable, but there is a bit of wind that makes it just a little bit uncomfortable.
And then an awkward dismount from the bridge and the second big decision; easy or hard.
You already know the answer don’t you; left, hard.
The thing is, we can’t yet see what is to come, but it all looks pretty vertical as we traverse first the beam and then the cliff face.
The cyclists are still following us, they didn’t want to overtake. They seem to be enjoying the bridge.
After the traverse a three cable bridge. This is one of the longest ones we have attempted. As it is long there is also quite a lot of flex in the cable, so it is quite wobbly, that together with the wind and it is tiring to cross requiring a lot of concentration.
I didn’t get to take a photo looking up at the climb from there, not relishing the idea of getting the camera out again. This was taken some minutes later looking back at the cyclists. After the bridge a vertical wall, quite long with no rest points, very tiring, but really good fun and very satisfying to complete.
I did manage to peer over at the vertiginous cliff once I had completed it, to give Susana encouragement and to photograph her. I think by this point the worst was over though.
So apart from a bit of down climbing we have completed the via ferrata. A really good and enjoyable climb. Now we have the three Tyrolean to complete.
The first is 150m long.
Looking down the wire you can barely see the landing platform.
That was fun, now a bit more down climbing!
Susana looking cool, as always.
The next one is a bit shorter, but this time lands against the rock. The timber landing platform is hung precariously and with a really awkward dismount. We thought the climbing was over.
And the final one, the gig one at 220m. Problem here though at bit of flex in the rope. I though it was my extra weight! This means we didn’t quite get to the landing platform, having to pull ourselves hand over hand to reach the other side. Exhausting after the effort already expended on the climb.
Now that is quite a long way!
You didn’t really think we wouldn’t have any video did you.
I must admit I kept getting it a bit wrong, luckily I had three attempts to get it right!
What a fantastic half days entertainment and great value at €17.
1.8 kms
4 hrs
We continue driving north, looking for some bread for lunch. Intermarche comes up with the goods so we eat in their car park before heading north once again, towards Grenoble.
We seem to be getting back towards some hills, back towards the alps.
The landscape is beautiful, but we don’t want to get too close to the city. Dora isn’t a great fan of cities, nor are we.
It seems just a few weeks ago when the sunflowers were in full bloom. Now they are dry and ready for harvest. The look quite sad and forlorn, their dark heads now bowed.
A few kilometres outside we turn off and head into the hills; climbing, climbing. We pass several suitable laybys, but decide to see what is around the next corner, and the next. At the pass, a small park with a nice big car park. The perfect place for a quiet night; dinner and then sleep.
Time to dream of the days adventure.
GDR
08/09/2015
