Golden onions

After the capital we headed into deepest Bulgaria, this is not actually correct, I think we have come from deepest Bulgaria, actually we are heading for the sophistication of the coast and the Black Sea.

But first, Susana’s research has discovered two places for us to stop; Plovdiv and Veliko Turnovo, and from here we had intended to head to Romania and the capital Bucharest. We had no intention of going to the coast, but then we changed our minds. We have had several requests for the map to show our intended route; David, our neighbour back in Ebbsfleet and our wine making friend, Luis. It can’t be done. We are really too fickly. One day we wanna go to Bucharesti, the next to the coast, and are we glad we did.

The change of heart we will describe in another post, ‘The Black Sea ain’t black!’.

Yesterday, after our stroll up Sofia’s local hill, we hotfooted down the motorway. On our ancient map, it was the only one, although I have the feeling more have been added since, and we have also seen them under construction. This one wasn’t bad, although road works were frequent. To be honest the only advantage to Dora is that others can overtake her easily as she potters along at 90 kmph (60 mph).

We arrived in Plovdiv (I love that name) early evening and found one of our less inviting stop overs. A barren piece of land in an industrial area outside a glassworks factory. It was pretty much empty when we arrived, but by the time we prepared our dinner it was filled tight with articulated lorries. We didn’t invite them over to join us.

The next morning we headed into the town proper, parked Dora and wandered into the vast pedestrian precinct,

Of communist proportions.

And plenty of monuments to the workers struggle.

I have also wondered where the sculptures are of the lethargy expressed by the bone idle, there must be a need!

And some nice modern stuff too.

Sometimes you feel public space can be too big, so vast that the public cannot fill it. It is intimidation to walk across. It highlights your insignificance!

Maybe that is the point.

We soon get to more sensible proportions reminiscent of any UK or Spanish high-street. Unlike those in the UK, this one still works and is filled with people doing high street stuff; consuming, spending, being capitalists.

And the western capitalist ideals have arrived, they also can drink vastly overpriced coffees from oversized cups!

Mr Lenin looks over, not impressed!

We have noticed that from Greece onwards, they love to gamble. Maybe that is us being presumptuous, maybe they don’t, but they have a lot of casinos, not something you see much of in the UK and Spain.

We really liked this fountain,

integrated into these steps.

But lets stop faffing with this commercialism and get down to some serious tourism, there’s Roman stuff here.

An circus which is three quarters buried. This is the only bit they have uncovered

And a very nice restoration they have done too.

A several groups of children seemed to have taken over the venue

And were performing some local dance.

Insert VIDEO

We now head towards the old town. I really like the way they insert mosques into the fabric of the city, surrounding them with commercial stuff, integrating them. No placing them on a pedestal like christianity.

A peacock fountain caught Susana’s eye.

Then we came across the amphitheatre but decided not to visit.

It looks like you can view pretty much everything from above, and we have amphitheatre fatigue.

These Roman’s got everywhere.

Next stop was more interesting. They have restored several traditional houses in the old town.

They look pretty Ottoman, with the timber frames and cantilevered upper sections which are delicately propped.

There were have a dozen to choose from…

Such a difficult decision!

This one will do.

It has a really nice courtyard.

And no-one else is around, so we can poke around to our hearts content.

There is not much information, so we assume this is the washroom.

Living room?

Another living room, entertaining room, parlour, drawing room?

This one is even more special, but where are the bedrooms, the kitchen, the toilet?

Maybe they just had a lot of tables and chairs.

Maybe they don’t know what the rooms were used for.

I just can’t believe they were all living rooms, drawing rooms, studies etc..

At last, at least they slept. Maybe they took shifts from all that entertaining.

And a wardrobe.

And a nice ceiling, good craftsmanship.

That was Plovdiv, Dora’s parking ticket was about to run out.

We head back, passing through the park and this amazing lake.

School is just out and every child seems to be stuffing themselves with pizza. Maybe the obesity epidemic will pass this way too?

We headed North.

We needed water.

We passed many small villages but remained thirsty.

We have found a lot of displays of old military hardware, stacked along the roadside. I quite like it. Nice place for birds to nest.

We eventual find our spring and fill Dora.

A beautiful scent penetrates Dora.

The fields are filled with…

Roses.

Around here they produce rose scented soaps, gels, creams, candles perfumes…quite a Bulgarian thing.

It is these sorts of experiences which take you by surprise, are the truly special ones. As was the next one.

Out of the blue, set against the dark green pine forest backdrop, a golden pearl.

Well onion actually, several onions.

We went to investigate.

Now as you are well aware, we are not that much into churches.

But the colour,

and the setting, made this one different.

The interior was not up too much, so you won’t get any of that.

But that opulent bling against the sky, pure indulgence.

Only a church could afford such hypocrisy (and maybe a state!)

This one was built in honour to the many soldiers who died in defence of the country against the Turks back in the XIX century. Human beings are priceless and so is this church. The cost is justified, if it meant to deprive the population from the basics. SM.

After that, Dora climbed.

She is never that happy about that. She climbed to a pass, and we spotted a tower , and went to investigate.

Now that was a long flight of steps. It was locked, but that didn’t mean it was closed.

Lurking behind the ticket office was an attendant who sold us some tickets, and from thin air two others appeared who unlocked our tower.

And we ascended, we saw amazing views,

but we also learnt how the Russians helped to free the Bulgarians from the tyranny of the Ottoman Empire, those nasty Turks.

or maybe the other way around? The Russians had vested interests in destroying the Ottoman empire. They helped all East European countries in this venture. From this action, a strong bond was born that was later used to create the Soviet empire. It had all been planned! This is a good example of why I don’t believe in altruism. SM

Impressive bullets. SM

Despite the crudity of the scene, the suffer, despair and violence has well been represented here. As you would expect, the Turks have been placed at the bottom, squatted, hidden. A sign that they were loosing the battle. It is amazing how history can be manipulated. SM.

And the views from the top were magnificent.

Poor Dora, having to climb all that way.

We headed down the hill, to find a place to rest for the night, hoping we would find something better than a glass factory.

GDR