Gorge-ous

Today we had planned the classic walk of the area: 16 kms down the Vikos gorge. We are always a little sceptical of these ‘popular’ walks, can they live up to expectation?

The weather was gradually turning for the better, it looked like it would be a fine day down in the gorge however cloud still lingered up in the mountains. We crossed our fingers for tomorrow.

We had arranged to meet our restaurateur and taxi driver at 9.30am. He was nowhere to be seen. We asked a couple of passers by, but it was futile, English and Spanish are not common in this remote area. Eventually, 20 minutes late, he turns up and we get to head off.

After passing through several small villages he drops us at Monodhendhri, just like the other villages, a bit more touristy.

This village sits high above the gorge, it will be a steep descent to get down near the river. We start the walk following signs in Greek. After about ten minutes we reach a monastery. Frustratingly this is not the right path and the monastery holds little interest not even deserving a photo!

It does however give us the opportunity to survey the gorge and imagine the route we might be taking. We traipse back into the centre of the village and start again looking for the start of the trek.

We soon find the path and at the edge of the village a small modern amphitheatre, cute.

This has meant that the old path has been diverted, a new one built. Don’t you just love the sensitivity of the junction, how the new one joins the old!

At least we are now on the right track.

We head down through the woods, the path descends steeply.

Up through the boughs of the trees we get views of the canyon walls above.

Just occasionally a gap in the forest allows wider views of the gorge, even allowing furtive glimpses of the river below.

But these are quite rare, most of the time the view is constrained by the trees. The trees dominate the valley of the gorge, clinging to its walls where the roots manage to hang on in sculptural fashion.

When the views do appear we take advantage and take lots of photos, but the reality is these are few and far between.

A sign at the start of the walk had advised that this was the deepest gorge and quoted the Guinness book of world records and the appropriate year. We have a long discussion about the differences between a valley a gorge and a canyon, but it obviously needs further research. Neither of us remembers the depths of our geography education so we remain stumped, just when you need Wikipedia!

And down below, the ever present river. Deep turquois in colour they are also immensely proud that this is one of the cleanest rivers in Europe, another almost meaningless metric!

The rocky walls loom above us cutting out the sun, but providing nice shade as it starts to get hot.

As we get closer to the river we see what they mean. The water is crystal clear.

Frogs leap into the pools as we approach, these are lucky frogs.

We have only passed several other couples doing the walk today, but then this is not exactly the height of the season. Maybe in summer this place is packed, but I would imagine it is still mainly Greek families.

It is a beautiful walk, but it is also just a little boring.

The trees are now in full leaf. Wood walks have never been my favourite, you never get the views.

That’s better, occasionally we get to climb up away from the river, and out of the tree canopy.

Short sharp hikes, where for some reason the path cannot stay close to the river, a waterfall maybe.

But then dropping back towards the green blue water.

The path is easy to follow, there will be no mistakes on this walk, how can you go wrong.

We start looking for somewhere to have lunch. We don’t want to be in amongst the woods, preferring the banks of the river, we start looking for a break in the trees.

Soon one appears.

Next to the cleanest, clearest pool we have ever seen.

This will just have to do.

We are worried about getting too close in fear of contaminating it.

The perfect lunch.

And then a meadow full of flowers.

The gorge begins to open up.

We begin to recognise some of the rocky outcrops we could see yesterday.

Maybe we were nearing the end of the trek.

It has been a really pleasant walk, if not that exciting.

One thing left, to climb out of the gorge, and back to Vikos.

As we climb, the river starts to fade into the distance.

But the landscape opens up,

to provide dramatic views.

The colour of the river below gets more and more vivid as you retreat from it.

This is a very special gorge.

We walk up the final steep path as it climbs out of the gorge.

Leaving the river far behind us.

As we come into the village a distant shower forms a rainbow across the valley. Hopefully this will be the last of the rain, tomorrow we want to head into the mountains.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GDR