After our walking break along the Verdon gorge, we are back on the cables. We are back on vie ferrate.
We were tempted to go back to Geneva to do the vie ferrate we couldn’t do due to the bad weather. However, there was another area of the French Alps we had not explore yet: Chambery. The idea of knowing a new place also appealed to us. Moreover, this place also had challenging vie ferrate on offer.
And here we are, in Chambery, with lots of vie ferrate to do. All of the routes I have chosen around here are relatively long, between 3 to 4 hours and graded between 2 to 4. Gary raises his eyebrows 
Too much? Perhaps, considering that it was only yesterday when we did the best and most demanding via ferrata so far.
Last night we ended in a bizarre place to sleep. We were very close to Grenoble by the end of the day. The idea of sleeping close to a big city didn’t appeal to us, so we turned off on to white mountain road, fifteen kilometres before Grenoble.
The road went through a dense forest with occasional lovely views of the valley. The drive was very nice but there weren’t a great deal of quiet laybys along the road. Eventually we came across a large car park, which seemed to be the entrance to a regional national park. The area was perfect; it was large and deep enough to park far away from the road and there was nobody there. It was going to be a quiet night.
We awoke to a nice and crispy morning.
And took a short walk towards the entrance of the park.
We had a coffee and headed off to our next via ferrata, which was still one and a half hours drive from here, at the other side of Grenoble.
The route today from our Cicerone guide is:
The route starts in St Pierre d’Entremont, a village half way between Grenoble and Chambery. It sits in the middle of the Chartreuse national park and to get to it, we have to drive on a really narrow, windy road.
Somewhere up there will be our route.
This area is really pretty. The villages are small but cute and quintessentially French, with an alpine style.
We’ve never heard of this park before. Thanks to our route, we will get to see some of it.
As expected, the drive has taken a couple of hours. It is now 14.00, we have time for a quick lunch before we head off. Most vie ferrate around here are quite remote, we have to walk up a long way to reach the base of the climb. The book suggests that to approach this one will take 45 mins. but we tend to be quicker than what they say so it may take 30 mins.
The walk soon becomes increasingly steep. Although it is quite shady, it feels hot and sticky.
To our surprise, we get to the base of the climb in 45 mins, feeling tired and sluggish. This doesn’t bode well for facing a 4hrs 15 mins route!
We start with stage A, which is grade 2. At least we don’t start with the difficult one.
Getting yourself up it is always tough. Today there has not been an exception, but it always gets easier later.
After the limbs have warmed up and the circulation is moving. GDR
The first section involves a steep, vertical climb up, fairly long. I don’t remember reading about it in the book. In fact, the start of the route was described as ‘being playful, with no strenuous moves’ . Have we actually read the wrong route?
The scenic beauty of this massif soon reveals itself. The exposure is quite intimidating. Rather than a 3 exposure level I would have given it a 4 or a 5. I am glad we’ve done a fair amount of vie ferrate to not feel too scared, but a for a complete beginner this could be problematic.
Soon we come across a rather unstable balance beam. The loose cable doesn’t offer a great deal of confidence and security. On the positive side, the beam is quite short. I don’t trust these beams. They look unsecure, almost as if they were suspended in air. I am sure this is not the case but this, combined with exposure, is enough to put you off them. The trouble is they are always placed when you are most committed to the climb, so you can’t turn back.
the climb becomes more and more exposed. However, the landscape is absolutely stunning. The feeling of freedom is overwhelming.
I am still waiting for my energy levels to raise but it is not happening today. I find this via ferrata more difficult than I expected.
Is it my imagination?
I am not sure about this climb, it feels more difficult than how the book describes it suddenly says Gary. That relieves me.
Also, we are walking quite slow. Perhaps because the climb requires more effort, more technical moves. It is hot, we are south facing, we have to stop more frequently for water. This can push the time if we also do Stage B.
It is the end of it? Gary shouts
No, it continues around the corner
It seems to be going on forever.
Overhangs are rare on grades 2 routes. Perhaps the odd one and not very pronounced. However, on this route, we’ve already encountered a few and quite close to each other. This has not been a big issue for us, as we have already experienced the airy overhangs of the grade 4 routes. But it is worth pointing this out, as the guide itself uses the number of overhangs as a key feature to grade a route. Their grading has been consistent throughout the routes we’ve done. But not on this one. This one seems to be graded wrongly, it should have been 3 rather than 2.
And to prove my point, look what is coming up.
Another overhang, bigger and scarier. Woo! This really feel ‘out there’. Tense those biceps, clip and unclip quickly, move those legs dynamically, let’s spend the minimum time on it.
Big effort come with big rewards. After overcoming the overhang, a little ledge is available for a rest and water. From here, you can admire the views if you don’t feel afraid of heights. Spectacular.
Magnificent, worthy.
At this point we take a view. We get the book out. Stage A of the route is coming to an end soon. It has taken us the time suggested by the book. How do we feel? Should continue with Stage B? or should we escape?
I am tired, I am surprised by the difficulty of the route. If this is grade 2, what is grade 4 going to be like? Gary feels the same. We decide to back off, we won’t do Stage B.
But, although the route is nearly over, the final surprise is awaiting us; a suspension bridge. We are very used to them, we have crossed many of these by now. However, this one is particularly wobbly. The motion plays against you; when you move forward, the bridge moves backwards, it could take a while to cross it.
Done! it has not been particularly enjoyable. Crossing it required lost of concentration and the effort to keep moving forward, whilst the bridge was pulling you back.
After the bridge, a steep climb round the corner and Stage A is over.
3.7 kms
2hrs
On the way down, we keep quiet. I feel disappointed for not having done the entire route. But it was the right decision. Moreover, we were moving quite slow. We could have finished the route later than they suggested, which is not good as we still have an hour drive to the next place.
However, not everybody cares about how late they can be in the mountains. Another couple is coming up with all the gear on. It is 17.00. Even if they only did Stage A, it is a bit late for doing this via ferrata.
Once we get in Dora, we revisit the choice of routes for the next couple of days. The one for tomorrow is actually another four hours; grades 4 and 3. Therefore, another quite demanding route, especially since we start with the most difficult one.
We look for an easier one, ideally a 2 or a 3 but there isn’t any around here. There is a 1 and a 2, in Col du Chat, a mini-national park north of Chambery. Okay, that will do us for tomorrow; an easy one that gives us a chance to rest.
The road to Col du Chat goes along the west side of the Lac du Bourget.
The size of this lake must not be dismissed. It is endless.
We find a convenient layby where we can park Dora for the night, and which will give us the chance to admire the multi-colour sunset.
Absolutely amazing.
However, we won’t sleep here tonight. When we are already super-settled in, i.e. had dinner, done the washing up and are ready to go to bed, a group of young people surround us with their cars and their loud music. They are in a mood for a party and, unfortunately, they have decided to have it in this place. Or maybe it is us who have invaded their usual party venue.
Since they don’t mind us but we mind them, we pack up and go, hoping to find a quieter layby soon. Luckily, the Col du Chat car park is not far, it is calmer and even better, right at the start of tomorrow’s via ferrata. The group of young people couldn’t have come at a better time.
SM.
09/09/2015
