Philosophy of the mountain

Slovakia had already provided some good excursions, which had been sorely missed from our itinerary, today we were back in the mountains, exploring the High Tatras.

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The previous walks have been at the weekend and we have come across numerous people on the trails. It seems Slovaks really enjoy the outdoors, they seem to respect and take care of it. Today however, is a week day, perhaps there will be less people on the trail.

After breakfast we move Dora a short distance along the road, back to the small village of Tatranska Polianka. We have got up early. We want to make sure we have plenty of time on the mountain. Our map gives distances in time, and the walk we have chosen could take nine to ten hours.

It is 8.30 and we are ready with all our stuff to head off. The mountains look far away. The walk starts along some easy paths, not too steep, up through pine forests. The forests are useful as it is already getting warm and the branches provide much needed shade.

Eventually we reach a bubbling stream, which we cross.

We take the opportunity to refresh ourselves in the cold water.

We still have some way to go until we are in amongst the mountains proper, but we are doing well.

After forty five minutes we reach our first signpost. Our map says this should take an hour, so we are making good progress. After another forty five minutes and we can see our next objective, a hotel, now just fifteen minutes away.

We have reached the hotel after one hour and forty minutes. The trees are starting to dissipate. We are now in the mountains proper, with that desolate and harsh landscape.

A few people are milling about. We are not sure if they have driven up here, have mad an early start or are staying at the hotel.

Beyond the hotel and crystal blue green lake with a waterfall cascading into it. A picture postcard scene, one that makes the effort worthwhile.

The lake water is so clear and still you can see every rock, every pebble deep below the surface.

That waterfall is quite high and therefore we can expect a much steeper path.

We pass two separate couples as we climb higher.

And are soon high above the lake with the hotel now in the distance

But still a fair way to go before we get up above that waterfall and onto the plateau.

The lake below is now a mirror of calmness. We must remember to go the other way around it if we return this way.

Eventually we get up alongside the cascade of water.

And get to see the plateau for the first time, our next objective. The path once again flattens out, becomes easier.

And we are getting higher now, so get to see the last remnants of snow of this season, soon to disappear completely.

Soon it will all be as barren as this rock face.

A family ahead have spotted something, as we approach, just visible, up among the rocks, a chamois.

And then further to the right, two more chamois. They are just dots against the stone and Susana cannot pick them out.

I am short sighted. Even with glasses on, I can never spot small anything. Hence, my lack of understanding the Gary’s bird watching passion. SM

Not quite alpine meadow, but these white flowers are beautiful against the deep green of the grasses.

Rather than the Chamois, this is what my eye caught. A colourful, scent, wild meadow. My dreamed garden would be vegetable patch and wild meadow around the edges. SM 

Higher up and a little more snow.

We have yet to see our destination. Ahead another steep climb, or a wall of rock and scree to walk around.

Another plateau ends, a steeper climb and then another plateau begins. This valley is a series of large steps.

And at the beginning of each step lake.

Of such remarkable clarity, purity, visibility. The water is almost not there.

But then, from a different angle, it acts like a mirror and you realise water is present.

It maybe shallow, but it still has that deep turquois hue.

Time has no meaning in the mountains as you begin to realise the forces at play. That gully, still full of snow and ice, slowly eroding the rock beneath. As the water percolates into it, freezes and fractures it, small rocks are created which cascade down the gully and over thousands of years form a large fan of scree at its base. As we walk up, we measure the time in minutes and hours. The mountain measures time in millennia and even then the change is barely perceptible.

This is probably why we find this landscape so inspiring, it compels you to confront your own significance within the order of the cosmos that we live in.

And finally we get to see our next destination, a pass, barely perceptible, but we can just make out figures in the distance.

We have made good progress, we have moved well and at a good pace.

The next big push starts, the next climb begins.

It is so satisfying seeing how far you have come, and in such a short time.

It seems just minutes ago when we passed the last lake and already we have climbed so far.

The final few metres before the pass is reached.

But they are not going to come easily, this is going to be a bit of a scramble, with pegs, chains and ladders to help.

And this extra complexity is creating a bit of a logjam, suddenly we are within a crowd.

We wait patiently and peruse the magnificent view.

Until eventually we can reach the pass. (Note the guy in shorts taking the photo)

It is fabulous up here,

but the summit is somewhere up there, and it looks an exciting finale to the summit.

The journey up this last section is a real challenge, requiring steady footwork and a calm head for heights.

This is a different exposure from yesterdays ladders. This is drops of hundreds of metres, but it is natural, so for me, somehow less intimidating.

All the time getting higher and higher.

It is not a long last section, but it is steep and requires hands and the odd use of help; chains and pegs.

After an exhilarating half an hour we reach the summit.

We are up amongst the High Tatras.

This is pretty much the highest peak you are allowed to summit here without a guide. Whether this is for economic reasons, to keep guides employed, or for a misguided safety reason, who knows. Maybe before this rule was in place, too many trekkers were getting into difficulty and as a result putting other peoples lives at risk. These mountains are really well used. We thought we might be on our own today, but summit to quite a forest of people. They may have the enthusiasm, but sadly many are really poorly equipped, with inappropriate footwear and are sorely lacking water. What these people need is not guides, but education.

Many will obviously summit this time, and maybe the next. But it only takes one excursion to make you realise you are not equipped to deal with the situation.

On the way up we passed a father with his son (you can see him in the photo of the pass, he is taking a picture with his ipad. Shorts and cotton T shirt, he pulls out a half litre bottle of water, I think this is all he has. They both wear training shoes and I am pretty sure there is no first aid kit in that rucksack. The father never made it to the top, but his son did, so congratulations to him. He skipped back down the mountain, way too fast for those young knees!

Summit photo before we start to head back down.

But those last few summit photos.

Ehmmn, clouds are building up, could get interesting.

It always looks much steeper on the descent. Now is the time to slow down, take your time.

Back at the pass, a young women is having problems descending the ladders and chains. Her trekking partner grins inanely at her, offering no help at all. She is obviously petrified and cannot go up or down.

We move down past her and help her down, back to where her partner is. Pretty sure she won’t be venturing into the hills again in a hurry, what a shame.

Now on easier ground we descend quickly, did we really climb up that path?

We retrace our steps, often the return landscapes look different from when you ascended.

But gradually we return to features we have got to know during the day.

It has been a fabulous day in the mountains.

But as we get close to the lake it is about to get even better.

A chamois has ventured down. We have never been this close to one before. A group of trekkers are by the path photographing her.

Yes, I could see that one. SM

These are meant to be really shy creatures. Maybe she is heading for water at the lake. She looks a bit manky, losing her winter fur.

We leaver her be.

heading back across the plateaus.

Back to the waterfall and then under the overhang,

Where we notice lots of climbing equipment left in place.

And finally, we remember, back around the hotel lake.

To see a different view.

As we descend the last portion of the trek, the heavens open, but is is only brief. Thunder and lightening are not far off though. It looks like we got off the mountain just in time.

 

What an amazing day, I think you get it, don’t you, we like Slovakia.

GDR