Tawdry Taormina

Taormina was a mythical place from a loved film, but she could never live up to expectation.

The film; ‘The Big Blue’, if you don’t know it, check it out.

Make sure you get the right version, ‘Version Longue’. It is French but they did an American version with a typical Hollywood ending, you wouldn’t want that one.

The film is about free divers. People who dive deep just on a lungful of air. It is based loosely on a true storey, but what I never realised was that the central character, Jaque Mayol took his own life in 2001.

Taormina sits on some cliffs overlooking the sea in some nonchalant way. What a sea, what a vista.

And from above this town looks charming, and amazing, nestled between these small hilltops, the motorway charging past on impossible engineering. But there are problems with Taormina. They don’t like motorhomes, more precisely, they don’t like vehicles, they certainly don’t like signs and car parks are unheard of.

We spent the best part of two hours trying to find somewhere that wasn’t on mainland Italy to park Dora, and this is the quiet season.

Having travelled through the various tunnels that completely disorientate you, we eventually found somewhere to the south of the town and walked back 30 minutes towards the centre. Hanging majestically above us we could see a castle. Not sure where the centre was, and always liking the climb and believing this would be a good vantage point, we headed up. Glad we did, the views where stunning.

We never got up there though, to the castle. Works were underway, in time for the proper tourists, so it was closed.

There was a strangle little chapel, dug into the rocks however.

Really quite homely.

We now had a good understanding of the town, head back down the steps towards the centre.

And what a load of tourist tat. Shop after gaudy shop of uselessness; fridge magnets, wall ornaments, tea towels with the cheeses of Italy, and of course every possible paraphernalia related to Al Pacino and the Godfather, even godfather tours were offered to the Americans by the busload. Maybe they can get back in tough with their Italian, or Sicilian roots!

There is an amphitheatre here with a tourist conning fee of €9, considering the whole of ancient Roma is only €12 this is extortionate.

We didn’t bother

We found this beautiful little cascade of steps through an orange grove.

Which led down to a delightful little public garden.

Beautiful shade and plants

But, most importantly, fabulous views. Etna still in her mid morning sulk, hid behind clouds.

The town is a delight really, with courtyard after courtyard of cafe culture, al fresco dining and outrageous prices.

The high street had not one useful shop selling real merchandise, but did end at a square with a church and,

more views along the coast

We never did find the hotel where Enzo and Jacques stay before the world free diving championship, maybe that is for the best.

Taormina had been a bit of a disappointment, we should have known better. It was obvious that this was going to be a tourist town.

Still, not to worry. We head back to the countryside. We head for the north coast.

This takes us back around Etna, although we find a different route, we never like to retrace our steps.

Our first choice of road is closed, they do not keep all of the high passes open around here. The next one is clear , even though snow still covers the sides of the road.

Gradually the mountains turn to hills as we near the north coast. We find a small town, Park Dora and settle in, with another glorious view over the sea.

GDR