What’s different about today’s via ferrata? It is the oldest in France, it was built in 1988. There is another reason why it is different but you will have to read the post to find out.
Sorry you’ve borne so many vie ferrate posts by now, but we are so much into this sport. Each of the via ferrata we have done so far is unique. We are trying to communicate that uniqueness to you as best as we can, which will also make a good record of our memories. However, we do understand if you want to skip this series of posts.
Last night, we slept for the second time in the aire at Briancon, yes the one with free electricity. No motorhome had parked there, so the place was, once again, only for us, and once again, we had an electricity feast. Dora was throwing sparks like a fireworks display.
We are leaving Briancon this morning and are heading off further south to walk along the Verdon Gorge. This place is familiar to us, we tried to do the walk along the gorge back in March but the route was closed due to a rock fall. We promised we would go back and so we are.
But before leaving Briancon, guess what, we are going to do another via ferrata. This one is slightly easier, it is a grade below the ones we have done in the last few days. But we have chosen it, one, because it is on the way and two, because it is the oldest created in France. Always looking for something different.
The route splits into two. Details of it including all stages are;
We hope, this time, we will complete them both.
As soon as we get to the park we realise this route is quite popular. There is one narrow space for Dora, which we somehow manage to squeeze in.
Goodness knows how the people will get back into their cars, we just hope that we will return before them! GDR
The route is facing south and it is a bright and hot day today. It looks France is going through an Indian Summer. So we make sure we fill our water bladders to the top.
This via ferrata is quite high, it is in the Ecrins Massif. Dora has been climbing up to the start of the route quite reluctantly, although, as usual, performing. She has finished her job, but we haven’t, we still have another 1.5kms climb to the base of the cliffs. It should not take more than 30mins.
Signs to the via ferrata are clear and often for the last fifteen minutes and thereafter disappear. To make the navigation more confusing, a few paths go off right towards the cliffs. We try each of them, but none take us to the start of the via ferrata.
50 mins later, we find it, just when we were about to give up. This time, our Cicerone guide wasn’t very helpful. The map is not very detailed plus the description to approach the route was stupidly vague.
So we start with Stage A;
Let’s get on with it, clip on!
You will see Gary more often today, both of us are taking photos.
The climb starts nice and easy, following a straight forward line.
With a fair amount of rock contact. Just how I like it.
On steep rock faces, stemples have been provided. The state of them, rusty and old, confirms the age of the route, although they are still 100% reliable. I wouldn’t expect less from the French!
You know what? Gary says I’ve just noticed I am climbing without gloves. I left them at the bottom of the cliff!
How can you possibly leave your gloves? I thought. The most essential (and coolest) piece of kit for via ferrata!
Ok, we will pick them up on the way back, just hoping no one has taken them.
I get so into my via ferrata that I have to remind myself about the views. So I stop, breath and smell the landscape
and get dizzy of how high and exposed we already are after only climbing 100m.
Managing this massive overhang is straightforward. I am so glad we don’t have to go over it.
Now it is Gary’s turn.
A wide ledge comes at the right time to rest and play with each others cameras.
A short climb is coming up. The knot has been placed in an inconvenient place to unclip from the cable. This is when I carefully have to keep my balance by leaning on the rock and act quick.
So far, we have not had immediate exposure at any time. The cable has gone through woods and shrubs. Perhaps it will now become more extreme.
Around the corner the ledge gets narrower and I need to tip toe with my reliable boots in any small foothold I can find.
The views are stunning but they come with a price; dramatic views means more exposure. At this stage, we are willing to pay the price.
Now that is one serene and beautiful little valley. That is what I like about this pastime, we would never have come here and visited this place were it not for the via ferrata. GDR
Gary is not far behind. I must remember to slow down so he can take photos of me.
Show-off. GDR
Quite cocky on a smooth but very sloppy slope!
The last section of stage A look pretty severe but there is no point to panic, as there is no escape. I will get worried when I get there.
Both of us coped with the last section successfully. We had no problems, there were plenty of footholds available and the tensed cable held us well into the rock.
How do you feel. I ask
Ready for more.
So we now head down towards stage B;
Grade 3 is probably the right grade for us. We feel comfortable, we climb quick, we move with elegance…Normally, by the end of it, we are satisfied and with enough energy to cope with more. That is why we, occasionally, push ourselves with grade fours, looking for a bit of a challenge.
A couple in bright orange T-shirts is chatting animatedly at the base of the route. I gesture them; ‘after you’, they gesture back; ‘no, no, continue’
English? they ask.
Spanish. I reply
And suddenly they exclaim; ‘bueno, bueno, buenoooo’ A typical Spanish gesture, expressing gladness and relief and also meaning; ‘why the hell are we speaking in another language??’
So yes, they are also Spanish, from the Basque country. They must be in their late fifties, lovers of the countryside and passionate about challenges, especially him. He has climbed a few peaks around Europe. Five years ago, he tried Monte Rosa. ‘I was sensible enough to turn back when we saw the west ridge’. I don’t blame him and that is the best thing to do if you are tired and unsure whether your body would be able to cope.
We both engage in a lively conversation, which makes me almost forget we need to finish the route. Something weird happens when you find your country fellows in a foreign country. Somehow, you feel you are back home.
As he expresses great interest in what other vie ferrate we’ve done, we give them our card so they can check them out on the website, as well as, other trekking routes.
We press on.
We look behind, they are following us closely, snapping at our heels.
Maybe we should have let them go first.
I hope we can still climb like that at their age says Gary.
I agree.
The second part of the route doesn’t differ in style from the previous one.
Only that the ledge system seems to disappear more often, but it is compensated by the provision of more stemples.
Still keeping up with us
After passing a slightly exposed and strenuous overhang,
We continue along a fairly broad ledge. Broad ledges are very unusual in modern grade three’s vie ferrate, as they are not very challenging. This confirms to us that stage B feels more like a continuation of stage A, rather than one grade more difficult.
The Spaniards are no longer following us. They must have backed off says Gary
The cable dips into the Grotte Ogive, which is not very impressive. It seems it is more like a big hole in the rocks rather than a cave.
You can only leave the cave by squeezing in a ‘boite aux lettres’
Gary is fearing he may get wedged.
Come on, stop moaning and get on with it. Stop breathing for a few seconds if necessary!
We continue around the cliff face. No signs of the Spaniards.
We are already at the final section of the route; a relentless 40m climb to the top, on smooth slabs.
Suddenly we look down, there they are! Hello, how are you doing? I was looking for you!
Yes, we were looking for you too. We are just taking it easy, enjoying the landscape and taking photos. I was going to say we do the same but I thought that would be a bit rude.
From 100m below, he shouts at me the best via ferrata he has ever climbed, which is in Switzerland. Perhaps we won’t do it says Gary remembering the promise we made that we would never go back to that country unless they have more sensible prices.
The 40m climb on smooth slab is soon over and felt do-able despite the lack of stemples. The rock was at an eased angle which enable us to walk almost straight, on narrow ledges and footholds, and use the cable to balance.
The walk down could be interested, as it has been described by the book as being ’precipitous’
The Spaniards are still on the rock, enjoying the landscape and taking photos! We are too far off to say good-bye.
Gary diverts to pick up his gloves and I head off to Dora to get lunch ready, 15.30, it is about time.
But lunch has still to be postponed. Once I get to Dora I find out I dropped one of my climbing slings. I was so annoyed with myself, but the item costs €20, so it is worth going back for it.
I came back with a smile in my face. Not only did I find the sling in the same place as I dropped it, but I also found a €5 note. The fellow who lost it won’t be as fortunate. But that is life; sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
Over lunch we take a view of today’s route.
What did we like about it;
It was nice and simple, a straight line traverse with ups and downs. It lacked some of the fancy elements of modern vie ferrate, such as wobbly bridges, but it has lots of contact with the rock, which makes the climb quite enjoyable.
Because it is so primitive, it is the closest in nature to those Italian routes, the true vie ferrate.
The views are absolutely stunning.
What did we not like that much;
There is little different in grade between stage A and stage B. In fact, some of the sections in stage A were a bit more challenging, such as the final way down where stemples were spread out and I had to smear down using solely my arms (smear is a climbing term meaning rubbing your feet against the rock when there are no footholds available).
Another via ferrata completed in a third of the time.
3.7 kms
4 hrs
16.00 and head off further south towards the Verdon gorge. but we won’t get there today. It is still along way and we have to cross another pass (shhhh, Dora doesn’t know that yet). We will only drive a couple of hours, which will take us down to Digne les Bains.
The drive is lovely especially going along the Lac de Serre Ponc
Endless lake
Turquoise blue colour
and tranquil
We arrived at Dignes Les Bains at 18.45, perfect timing. The aire we will sleep tonight is next to the spa and has been very easy to find.
Tomorrow we need to arrange the logistics to make the second attempt to walk along the Verdon gorge. No via ferrata for a couple of days, you may be pleased to hear 
SM
05/09/2015
